Not only are antique rings an eco option, as buying one is a form of recycling, you can get a lot for your money, as well as the superb craftsmanship of yesteryear.
The uniqueness of vintage items makes them perfect for brides who like to stand out from the crowd. And, as many are currently being melted down due to the high price of gold - buy one and it'll just get rarer, making it a great heirloom piece as well as conversation starter.
Vintage, antique, estate or heirloom?
Before you begin looking at vintage jewellery with a view to investing, it's important you know the difference between vintage, antique, estate and heirloom jewellery. To be correctly classed as vintage or antique jewellery, items must be at least 100 years old. Estate items, on the other hand, are not necessarily old and can include costume jewellery from any period; essentially, estate means secondhand items, which have come from someone's estate (belongings). Heirloom jewellery is simply a piece that has been passed down through generations of the same family, but again, this term doesn't tell you how old the piece is - you may be looking at a vintage heirloom, or it maybe something much more modern.
Vintage engagement rings
As well as generally costing less, vintage or antique engagement rings have a uniqueness, history and personal appeal - you won't see another bride-to-be wearing 'your' ring if it's an antique item.
Vintage rings vary massively in design according to era. Victorian engagement rings (1835-1900) were most often set in yellow or rose gold. Designs varied from simple through to very intricate, with many settings featuring rows of diamonds. A word of warning: many Victorian rings also included pearls and we don't recommend these for everyday wear, so be careful if you fall for a Victorian style.
Edwardian engagement rings (1900-1920) are typically made from platinum. Expect intricate work with scrollwork, milgraining and filigree detail on mountings, while rose-cut diamonds (the stone's many facets resemble tightly packed rosebud petals) were popular at this time, as were sapphires.
Art deco rings (1920-1930) are extremely popular and vary hugely in terms of design. Many boast colourful gemstones and others clusters of diamonds in platinum - they changed with the current fashion. Diamonds in art deco rings were often set in elaborately carved settings, making them appear bigger.
Questions to ask yourself when buying a vintage ring
1) Is it a diamond?
While diamonds are currently by far the most popular stone for engagement rings, in years gone by the use of other stones was popular too. Be careful of rings containing softer stones like emerald, opal and pearl, which can damage easily and may have internal cracks.
2) Is it a true antique?
Make sure you study the craftsmanship of vintage items carefully. Vintage jewellery typically features superb craftsmanship - avoid modern replica rings, which are made in vintage styles, but lack the quality and character. It's worth noting that if you were to commission a modern jeweller to make a ring in a vintage style with the same quality of craftsmanship, you would pay much more than you will for a true antique ring.
3) Can it be made to fit?
Most vintage rings can be resized to fit your finger, depending on the style of the ring and the degree of alteration needed. If the shop you are buying from doesn't do alterations in-house, they should use a local goldsmith. Make sure any alterations needed are possible, and you know the costs involved before you hand over any money.
4) Is it in great condition?
Buy a ring that is in excellent condition and will last your lifetime. Make sure the shank (the band that wraps around your finger) isn't thin. If you are in doubt, don't buy it.
5) What have I got in writing?
As well as your receipt, ask for a written report of the ring: age, size, condition, colour, carat, clarity and cut.
All that sparkles...
Already been presented with your engagement ring? You can still get in on the vintage action with other pieces. Necklaces, brooches, earrings, bracelets and cufflinks for the groom are all abundant from antique jewellery specialists. You'll be amazed at what you can get for your money - for example a beautiful and genuine 1940s necklace will often cost less than a new reproduction. Looking for something in particular? Don't be afraid to tell the jeweller what you want - they'll often take your number and call you if they source something you may be interested in.
Where to buy vintage jewellery
There is a plethora of different places where you can buy vintage jewellery. If you are looking for inexpensive pieces, like brooches or necklaces for bridesmaids, you'll find bargains in online auctions and junk shops, as well as antique shops and jewellers. If you're shopping for engagement or wedding rings, we strongly advise you visit reputable jewellers and antique jewellery specialists, who will help you with your purchase. Little Jems in Truro and Penzance (01736 351400) houses an extensive selection of vintage stunners.
Symbolism
Generally speaking, when buying jewellery we are mostly concerned with the quality and physical merits of a piece, but in the past people put a lot of emphasis on symbolism too. If you're considering buying vintage wedding jewellery for yourself, or as gifts for your wedding party, it's worth having some knowledge of the hidden meanings - thereby adding another dimension to your treasure.
During the Victorian era, anything that Queen Victoria wore became high fashion, so when Prince Albert gave her an engagement ring in the form of a snake, snake motifs instantly became popular. Snakes symbolise eternity. Other popular motifs include butterflies, which symbolise resurrection, inspired by the insect's emergence from a chrysalis. Clasped hands signify friendship, anchors and chains signify faith in salvation, dogs signify fidelity and flies are a sign of humility. As they still do today, cupid and arrows mean love and hearts symbolise love and devotion. Flaming hearts mean passion and crowned hearts are a sign of triumphant love.
You'll find lots of vintage jewellery incorporates flowers and each means something different. Roses have always been popular, as they are today - red roses mean romantic love and pink roses mean friendship. The start of love is represented by lilac, mistletoe symbolises a kiss and ivy is the sign of both evergreen love and marriage. Pink carnations show devotion, pansies ask the recipient to 'think of me', bluebells signify consistency, daisies say innocence and ferns symbolise fascination.
Gemstones also had specific meanings places on them. Diamonds symbolise consistency, hence their use for engagement rings. Coral was said to protect against evil, ruby means passion, amethyst signifies faithfulness and devotion and emerald represents hope and harmony.
Early Victorians, known for being particularly romantic, went a step further with their jewellery symbolism and would actually spell words via the first letter of the gems used in a piece of jewellery. For example, 'love' would be signified by lapis, opal, vermeil and emerald.
A geology lesson
All diamond engagement rings are in fact inherently old - well, the diamonds are anyway. Diamonds are made from 99.95% pure crystallised carbon and are aged between one to three billion years old! They are formed beneath the earth's surface and are released when volcanoes erode down. Diamonds are the hardest naturally occurring substance known on earth - and they're pretty to boot.
A lesson in love
According to legend, we have Archduke Maximilian to thank for the tradition of giving engagement rings. The Austrian man bought his beau, Mary of Burgundy, a diamond ring in 1477 to celebrate their imminent engagement and placed it on the third finger of her left hand - said by ancient Egyptians to hold a vein that leads straight to the heart. What a romantic.
words Rachael D'Cruze
Copyright WED magazine 2012
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